Fumaroles and steam at a high-altitude geothermal field, with the ochre mineral crust of the ground
Destinations

Termas de Puritama: eight hot pools at 3,500 metres in the middle of the desert

Francisca

Marketing · Vivencias Travel

Sep 29, 20266 min read

Water between 28 and 35 degrees running through a rock canyon, 28 km from San Pedro. How many pools you actually manage, why the midday wind changes everything, and the altitude detail nobody mentions.

Puritama is the least expected thing in the Atacama: a river of hot water running through a narrow canyon, green reeds along its banks, surrounded by the driest desert on earth in every direction.

What they actually are

Eight pools have been built in a stepped sequence along the river, linked by wooden walkways. The water is thermal, volcanic in origin, and holds between 28 and 35 degrees depending on the pool.

These are not spa pools: they are adapted natural basins with stone and sand bottoms. That is exactly what makes them worth it.

How many you actually manage

Here is the practical detail almost no site mentions: nobody does all eight. The walkways add up to a decent walk, and most trips allow an hour and a half to two hours of free time. In practice you manage three or four pools without rushing.

The tip: walk up to the highest pools first and work your way down. The lower ones are closest to the entrance and therefore the busiest; the upper ones are nearly empty and tend to be the warmest.

The altitude nobody mentions

Puritama sits at 3,500 metres, a thousand above San Pedro. That changes two things:

  • It is not a first-day trip. Arriving in the desert and climbing a thousand metres to get into hot water is the combination most likely to bring on a headache and nausea.
  • Hot water accelerates dehydration. At altitude you already lose fluid faster through breathing; add a hot soak and the effect doubles. Bring more water than seems reasonable and drink before you get in, not only afterwards.

The midday wind

The canyon shelters you well, but from midday onwards wind usually picks up on the altiplano. Climbing out of 33-degree water into desert wind at 3,500 metres is unpleasant in a way that is hard to describe.

That is why the morning slot gives you more: water just as hot, no wind, and fewer people in the pools.

Hours and tickets

Opening hours generally run 8am to 5pm, with last entry around 3:30pm. Adult entry usually costs CLP 35,000 to 38,000 depending on the date, with reduced rates for children and seniors, and free entry for under-threes.

They are 28 kilometres from San Pedro and there is no public transport. You go with an agency, a transfer, or a rental car.

What to bring

  • Your own towel and flip-flops: the path between pools is wood and stone
  • Swimwear underneath, because the changing rooms are basic
  • A windproof layer, for the reason above
  • Sunscreen: at 3,500 metres the radiation is far stronger than the temperature suggests
  • Pesos in cash, if entry is not included in your tour

If you are planning the route, see when to go and what to do in the Atacama, and if you are travelling with children, which trips work and which to leave out.

Frequently asked questions

How hot is the water at Termas de Puritama?

Between 28 and 35 degrees depending on the pool. There are eight stepped pools along a river of volcanic thermal water, linked by wooden walkways, with natural stone and sand bottoms.

Can you do all eight pools?

In practice, no. The walkways add up to a decent walk and most trips allow an hour and a half to two hours of free time, which covers three or four pools without rushing. Walk up to the highest ones first: they are the least busy and tend to be the warmest.

Is Puritama a good first-day trip?

No. It sits at 3,500 metres, a thousand above San Pedro, and arriving in the desert and climbing a thousand metres the same day is the combination most likely to bring on a headache and nausea. Save it for once you have acclimatised.

What is the best time of day to go?

The morning. The canyon shelters you, but from midday wind usually picks up on the altiplano, and climbing out of 33-degree water into desert wind at 3,500 metres is deeply unpleasant. In the morning the water is just as hot, with no wind and fewer people.

Sources