Bariloche in summer: what to do when there is no snow

Bariloche in summer is a completely different destination from the Bariloche of the snow, and, for many people, a better one. Between December and March temperatures climb past 20 °C, the sun sets close to 9pm, and the lakes take on a turquoise that never shows up in a winter photo. It is the season for walking, sailing, cycling and eating outdoors.

What is the weather like in Bariloche in summer?

Highs generally sit between 20 °C and 25 °C, with cool nights that call for a jacket even in January. There is little rain, and the day goes a long way: it gets light early and dark near 9pm, which in practice means two or three more hours of sightseeing than in winter.

One warning almost no guide gives clearly: Bariloche is not a place of constant heat. A cloudy day, with wind off the lake and 14 °C, can turn up in the middle of January. Pack light clothes, but pack a windbreaker and a base layer too. Anyone who brings only summer clothing gets cold.

What to do in Bariloche in summer

• Circuito Chico. The classic drive, and in summer it is another thing entirely: the Cerro Campanario viewpoints and the Llao Llao view with the lakes open and the mountains green. It is the photo everyone takes home.
• Sail to Isla Victoria and the Arrayanes Forest. It only truly works in good weather, and it is the most requested outing of the season. The arrayanes forest is unique in the world.
• The Seven Lakes Route, up to San Martín de los Andes. A full day on the road with viewpoints. In winter it is often partly closed; in summer it is open and at its best.
• Lake beaches. Playa Bonita, Villa Tacul, Bahía López. The water is cold, yes, but under the January sun plenty of people get in.
• Cerro Catedral without snow. The mountain becomes an adventure park: trails, mountain biking, ziplines and the same view as always, now green.
• Trekking. From Refugio Frey to Cerro Llao Llao, there are trails for every level, and this is the only season when all of them are open.
• Chocolate and craft beer. Mitre street and the region's breweries do not close in summer, and there are no queues.

Which is the best month for Bariloche in summer?

It depends on what you want to avoid:

• December strikes the best balance: it is already warm, the days are the longest of the year and the town has not filled up yet. Before Christmas, prices are considerably lower.
• January is the peak. The best weather, and also the most people, the highest prices and bookings needed well in advance.
• February, especially after Carnival, starts to empty out while the weather holds. It is the second-best window.
• March is the turn: fewer people, low prices, and the first autumn colours. Some lake trips run less frequently.

Summer or winter in Bariloche?

Choose winter if the goal is snow: skiing, seeing snow for the first time, sledging. It is what most travellers come for, and it is when the town is at its most expensive and crowded.

Choose summer if you want Patagonia itself: the lakes, the trails, the Seven Lakes road, the boat trips. The landscape is more open, outings do not depend on mountain conditions, and you fit more into a day. And there is a practical argument: outside July, everything costs considerably less.

How many days?

Four days is the minimum for the essentials: Circuito Chico, one boat trip and a free day in town. With five or six you can add the Seven Lakes and a trail without rushing. Fewer than three days means leaving out at least one of the classics.

What to pack

• Light clothes for the day and a jacket for the evening: the temperature swing is wide.
• A windbreaker: the wind off the lake is constant.
• Sunscreen. Patagonian radiation is strong and the water reflects it.
• Closed, comfortable shoes if you plan to walk any trails, even short ones.
• An ID card in good condition. Brazilians enter Argentina without a passport, using the physical ID: the digital version is not accepted.