Francisca
Marketing · Vivencias Travel
Two hours north of Santiago there is an island with a thousand penguins, a two-hour clifftop walk and beaches without Viña's crowds. What to do in a day, and why to go between November and March.
Almost every beach day trip out of Santiago heads for Viña del Mar and Valparaíso. It makes sense: it is close, transport is easy and there is plenty to do. But the coast 140 kilometres north, towards La Ligua, is a different proposition, and anyone with a free day in January should consider it.
It is around two hours by car on Ruta 5 Norte, or Ruta 68 to Viña and then the coastal F-30-E.
Zapallar
The most exclusive of the three, and it shows in the houses: early twentieth-century summer mansions, many tucked into the hillside above the beach. The bay is small, horseshoe-shaped and sheltered from the wind.
What is worth doing here is the paseo costero, a path that follows the shoreline over the rocks, with the sea breaking below and the houses appearing between pine trees. It is not a demanding trail, it is a coastal walk with a good view the whole way.
Cachagua and the penguin island
Between Zapallar and Papudo sits Cachagua, and about 100 metres offshore lies Isla de Cachagua, a 4.5-hectare nature sanctuary home to a colony of Humboldt penguins that at certain times of year reaches a thousand birds.
You cannot land: the island is protected. You watch from the beach, and anyone wanting a closer look takes a boat trip leaving from Cachagua beach itself. Bring binoculars if you have them, because to the naked eye the penguins are black dots on rock.
The walk from Zapallar to Cachagua takes around two hours along the coast and is, according to people who know the area, the best thing you can do here for free.
Papudo
The most family-friendly of the three. The beaches are wider and shallower, with less current, which works better with children. Playa Grande is the main one, with services along the front.
About horse riding
The north coast is good riding country: farmland, dunes and wide beach in places. It is arranged locally and usually starts from estates between Zapallar and Papudo. Beach in the morning and a ride in the late afternoon is what makes the day work, and it is the part independent visitors rarely manage to organise in time.
When to go
November to March, when the sea is bearable and the coast is alive. Outside that window several things close and the wind is constant. The trade-off is that Zapallar fills up in January and February, so leave Santiago early.
One important warning: Pacific water in Chile is cold all year, January included, because of the Humboldt current. Do not expect Caribbean temperatures. Expect walking, eating well and looking at scenery.
If you are planning your days in Santiago, see also what to do in Santiago in summer.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the drive from Santiago to Zapallar?
Around two hours, roughly 140 kilometres. You can go via Ruta 5 Norte towards La Ligua or Ruta 68 to Viña and then the coastal F-30-E.
Can you see penguins at Cachagua?
Yes. Isla de Cachagua lies about 100 metres offshore and is a nature sanctuary home to a colony of Humboldt penguins that at times reaches a thousand birds. Landing is not allowed, but you can watch from the beach, and boat trips go closer. Bring binoculars.
When is the best time to go?
November to March. Outside that window several places close and the wind is constant. In January and February the coast fills up, Zapallar especially, so leave Santiago early.
Can you swim in the sea?
You can, but Pacific water in Chile is cold all year, January included, because of the Humboldt current. This is not a coast for spending hours in the water: it is for walking, eating well and looking at the scenery.
